(Note: With the lone exception of the pic of the B.O.B Bicycle trailer, all the photography in this blog are my own pics - taken with a cheap camera that I paid $179 for on a clearance sale at OfficeMax in 2007!)
Once a touring cyclist, always a touring cyclist at heart!
Most of us experience the world at a much faster pace: By car or other mechanized form or transportation. When I bicycle or walk through an area that I normally motorize through, I have time to notice much greater detail in nature and the architecture of that area. That can be both good or bad, depending on the area. However, there are a *lot* of neighborhoods that I would NOT recommend moving slowly through!
At the end of this article, you will find copious links for all information mentioned in this particular blog.
Round 'bout late Sept / early Oct, when the weather cools off at night a bit, but days are a comfortable 70 degrees, I feel an irrepressible urge to tour the KATY Trail, and local bicycle trails as well.
For 3 years in a row, I spent my vacation time on a bicycle tour. All by myself, with no other bicyclists, guides, etc. The first year, I bicycled the entire length of the KATY Trail and back home - 511 miles, with a bicycle loaded with panniers (luggage), and a one-wheel B.O.B trailer; 70 lbs. of camping and luggage, not counting the weight of the bicycle, trailer, panniers, etc.
My B.O.B (Beast-of-Burden!) trailer:
I included my fully loaded REI Novara Randonee touring bicycle (with Ortleib bags) in this picture for perspective. The size of the bluffs in this picture are relatively small compared to the bluffs a few miles down the trail, between Jefferson City and Booneville, MO, which are 3 times this height:
Keep in mind that I am blind in one eye, I have one arm that is 4" shorter than the other, and I have basically a "leg and a half".
The first 19 miles, there isn't much to see on the KATY Trail. Before the trail reaches Klondike County Park, I approached the Weldon Springs Conservation Area. It is a beautiful place, and is the first of 2 places along the trail that nature has fought back to reclaim her beautiful wilderness. Portions of the Weldon Spring Conservation Area were used by the Department of Army in the 1940's for TNT and DNT production and by the Atomic Energy Commission in the 1960's for uranium ore processing. The affected portions were all part of a federal environmental cleanup project and required to meet certain environmental health and safety standards. The area is now considered safe for all recreational pursuits allowed on the area, as well as the wildlife found within the area. The trail passes immediately adjacent to a long stretch of bog / swamp / marsh. In the growing season, the view is both beautiful and surreal.
The other example of nature's resiliency is Klondike County Park, a short 10.4 miles from Weldon Springs Conservation Area. This park was once a quarry used to mine silica to make glass, at a factory located immediately across the Missouri River. The sand, rocks, cliffs, etc, in this park are truly snow-white. Another feature of this stone is that it can be crushed under foot, much like a sugar cube. This park is a relatively new park, opening up in 2003.
The other example of nature's resiliency is Klondike County Park, a short 10.4 miles from Weldon Springs Conservation Area. This park was once a quarry used to mine silica to make glass, at a factory located immediately across the Missouri River. The sand, rocks, cliffs, etc, in this park are truly snow-white. Another feature of this stone is that it can be crushed under foot, much like a sugar cube. This park is a relatively new park, opening up in 2003.
At this park, there is a convention center, 8 cabins that sleep 8 people each, basic and advanced camping sites, as well as hot showers and a camp kitchen. Klondike County Park is known as "The Jewel of St. Charles County". On my way out and on my trip back home, I either camp there, or rent a cabin.
The rental procedure for the cabins is somewhat drawn-out, but it is absolutely necessary in order to rent one of these cabins. It is advisable for a renter to book one of these cabins as many MONTHS in advance as possible.
A quick, amateurish walk-through of a cabin, with a very cheap digital camera:
The day that you are planning to arrive at your cabin, the park ranger will call you and tell you your pass code to unlock the door of the cabin. The cabins have power and lights, a ceiling fan, a private, small, separate bedroom that sleeps 4 people in bunk beds, a loft that sleeps 2, and a Futon that sleeps 2. There is a picnic-style table inside, as well as a picnic table outside, and each cabin has it's own private fire pit.
These cabins do not have heat or air conditioning, and they do not have running water or toilet facilities. Located within a 2 minute walk, is either a Biodegradable outhouse-style toilet (with marble counter tops and running water!), or a complete shelter house with modern toilet facilities, hot showers, and a camp kitchen.
Three miles west of Klondike is Augusta, MO. Augusta has the Trail Head Brewery, which is nice for a meal, snack, beer or cocktail before retreating back to Klondike County Park for the evening. There are small villages and towns at regular intervals along the trail. It is the opinion of this writer that the real beauty of the KATY Trail really doesn't unfold until about 20 miles East of Columbia, MO, and then continues until just a few miles east of Sedalia, MO. From Sedalia, MO to Clinton,MO, which is the end of the trail (255 miles one way), the trail is basically flat and geographically relatively uninteresting.
The Columbia / Jefferson City / Rocheport, MO area on this trail is absolutely beautiful. Most of this particular trail runs directly along the Missouri River, until Booneville, MO, and the trail branches off in a south-western direction, and away from the Missouri River
"KLONDIKE"
- THE LEGENDARY WILD 'GHOST' GOAT!
(and former unofficial mascot of the park!)
Absolutely no trip to Klondike County Park is complete without a slow walk to the top of the huge hill behind the convention center. The only way to the top of this look-out spot is to walk (or ride, if you are Superman!) up a steep, paved walkway. About 2/3 up the hill is a large level area. Evidence of the previous mining activity is apparent in this spot, and many other areas of the park, if you look carefully. There are blast marks on the ground in this area. A fence surrounds this area, to keep any nut jobs from falling over the edge. There are a couple park benches, a picnic table, and a bio-outhouse in this area. These outhouses have solar panels, they are ventilated, have self-contained running water for hand washing, feature granite counter tops, and have virtually no smell! There are several throughout the park.
If we leave the beaten path that most visitors take, we can go up the hill a bit higher. A certain distance up this hill, we will find a fenced off area. Before a girl fell off this cliff (IDIOT!), we could walk to the very pinnacle of this cliff. Ravens fly above, and I could see for miles. The view is breathtaking.
Before retiring to my tent on the first night of my stay in this park, I made my first trip up this hill to enjoy the view. I usually planned on being at my destination for the evening just before sundown. That allowed me time enough to enjoy my destination, relax a bit, and settle in for the evening. That is where I differ from many cyclist. With very few exceptions, when I set out to ride, I actually plan to go some place! I had a destination every time I left the house. I call it 'incentive'!
At the summit: I have an uncanny sense of smell. I won't go into details, but let's just say that I wish EVERYBODY would wash themselves before boarding public transportation! Anywho.... I climbed to the outlook plateau on this huge hill, and I got a whiff of something rather strange. It had a distinctive musky, sweaty, 'greasy' odor. When I decided to look at my surroundings to see if I could determine the source of this odor, the 'source' was about 50 ft. from me - looking me dead in the eye. He obviously saw me before I saw him! **I** was invading his territory. In his opinion, I was on his turf. This creature was waist high, he had long, shaggy, dark gray coat, huge curly ram's horns that would make any St. Louis Rams fan envious, and this wise, aged look in his yellow slanted eyes.
The first time I ascended this hill was the last time I actually took my bicycle with me. I rode half way up the hill in granny gear, and pushed the bicycle the rest of the way up the hill. There are very few hills that I have ever tried to conquer that required me to dismount and PUSH the thing up the hill, but there have been a few instances where 'pushing' was necessary. Two of the four hills that I have had to 'push' are in Klondike Park, the one of the other hills is in Augusta, MO (even though I have ridden up this hill many times without pushing), and the other time is in Holt's Summit, MO, just across the Missouri River outside Jefferson City, MO. With each subsequent visit to this particular hill, I choose to leave all but one pannier and my BOB trailer at my campsite or in my cabin before visiting. There is no real threat of theft in this park, but out of sheer habit, I would lock my bicycle at the base of the hill before climbing it on foot.
Back to 'Klondike - The Mascot':
I was sitting on my fully loaded bicycle (with loaded bright read Ortlieb panniers and my bright yellow BOB trailer), about 50 ft. from this mean looking goat. At the time, we probably weighed about the same, but my bicycle has drop handlebars, and with the trailer included, the additional gear made me look bigger and more menacing than HIM. As a bluff, he started to snort, put his head down, and paw the ground in a mock attempt to threaten me. When he realized that I truly wasn't going to run away, he turned and climbed a path that was almost vertical up a smaller hill. This gave him the upper hand, because he was higher than me. He turned and looked at me, as if to say, "OK - It's your turn! Show me what got!" Without taking my eyes off him, I slowly got off my bicycle, and reached for my camera in my panniers. I snapped a couple rather bad shots of him, but they did serve to prove that I was actually there, and that this huge mountain goat wasn't a figment of my imagination!
After I snapped the photo, 'Klondike' started pawing and snorting again. Being a non-gambler, I decided to get the heck out of there and let him have his territory back. I put my hands up as if to surrender, and I said, "OK, buddy - you can have it! You won King of the Hill!", and I headed back down the hill on my bicycle! What a way to warm up the brake pads!
(Fast forward 1 year)
When I returned the following year, I stayed at Klondike County Park twice more, one night on the way out (westward), and the other night upon my return (eastward). On my way out, I did climb the 'mount' and I saw Mr. Klondike once more. Upon my return 5 days later, I climbed the hill one last time, for the nostalgia of the event, and for one more breathtaking view before I returned to my cabin. This time, I could SMELL him, but I couldn't see him. Ferrel goats are good at rubbing themselves on trees, etc, to mark their territories with their scent. There is nothing more eerie than knowing Mr. Klondike is close enough for me to SMELL him, but I couldn't see him.....and I knew very well that he could see me!
(Fast forward 2 years)
During my last trek down the KATY Trail (a full tour, at any rate), I was a bit disenchanted. Not only did the water main that ran to the park break the day before I arrived (and nobody called to tell me, or offer my $$ back!), but I climbed the hill one last time. I couldn't see nor smell Klondike this time. Even though his presence could leave a visitor somewhat uneasy, I was missing him, just the same.
Due to the water main break, there was no running water in the park at all during my last full tour of the Trail. (They have since rectified the situation by installing more than one water main, so that if one breaks, there will be a back up plan.) To help ease the discomfort of not being able to take a shower for 2 days, the head park ranger came to my cabin to talk to me. She offered me a couple gallons of water so I would have something to drink, and to be able to brush my teeth and put my contacts in the next morning. First, she attempted to yell at me for burning a fallen tree, but I explained to her that this particular tree had fallen in the woods 2 yrs. earlier, and that the previous tenants of the cabin had dragged it out of the woods and started burning it. The park rules and regulations prohibit collecting and / or burning wood found in the park, itself. The rules DO allow bringing in your own wood, as long as it is a native Missouri species, to avoid the risk of introducing unwanted pests to the trees in the park. Remember that this entire park was once a quarry, and only over the past few years has it been resilient enough to replenish vegetation. There is a little general store in Augusta, just 3 miles down the trail, that sells firewood, and there is also a small Mom and Pop shop just a block away that sells wood to campers. Those places where most visitors to the park buy their wood.
Once the ranger was satisfied that I was not the culprit that committed said infraction (and that it was a weekday evening, and I was the only camper in the park!), she sat down on the steps of my cabin and started chatting with me. I asked her "What happened to Klondike the Goat?" She told me that he actually was not a figment of my imagination, and that for the past 5 years, they he has been their unofficial mascot. However..... some flaming **IDIOT** started to feed him apples, and when the next person came along that did NOT have an apple, he or she got a head butt from this mammal missile that probably was not one to be reckoned with! I supposed that if Klondike got pissed, he could knock a person a fair distance!
Could somebody please tell me? What hellaciously stupid person would be **IDIOT** enough to approach a horribly smelly, obviously wild, HUGE animal with HUGE horns that looked like the devil himself, to offer him an apple? Unfortunately, it was humans - imagine that! - that caused his demise. If they would have left him well enough alone, there is a good chance that Klondike would still be the stuff that legends are made of, and he would still be the King of his territory. The Park Ranger said that they had to set a humane, live trap, and capture poor old Klondike, and that a local farmer adopted him to live the rest of his days out happily on a farm. I am hoping that the farmer put him in an enclosure by himself for a while, until he became adapted to other farm animals and the new humans in his life. Although he made an impressive photograph, I hope they gave him a bath and a hair cut! The moral of this particular part of the story:
1) I miss poor old Klondike. This park is BEAUTIFUL, but there seems to be a palpable emptiness.
2) Humans can, indeed, be the dumbest animals!
THE NIGHT I HAD TO SLEEP WITH THE GYPSIES!
Good planning is essential when preparing for either a short one hour ride, a day ride, or for a bicycle vacation. More often than not, I am literally out in the middle of nowhere. There are small towns scattered along most of the trail, but many of them have little to no services available to people using the Katy Trail. Since camping along the KATY Trail is strictly prohibited, a cyclist that is taking riding any real length of the trail MUST have plans for accommodations made in advance, and his planning must be such that he is at his evening destination before dusk hits the trail. You have to know "Where you are going to be, and when you are going to be there." Before I left home, I had camping reservations made for 2 nights (one going out, and one coming back) at Klondike County Park, 2 nights at a hotel in Sedalia, MO, and one night at this Hostel along the trail that is set aside specifically for KATY Trail users.
Anywho...I bought a "fairly good" book about the Katy trail. The book lists each small (or larger!) town, and services or places of interest at each town or city. At Tebbets, MO, the book says there is a "Turner Katy Trail Shelter Hostel". This Hostel has all the heat / air, hot water, a functional kitchen, ping pong table, and sleeps 40, if necessary. This place would be a welcome respite for any weary Trail user.
I had planned on staying there at end of a day that I had just put in over 100 miles, with a leg-and-a-half, an arm-and-a-half, etc - and 70 lbs. of luggage. I stopped at the bar / restaurant across the street for some supper, and told the gentleman that I was planned on staying at the Hostel across the street. Mind you, there are only 2 streets in this town - it is TINY! The gentleman didn't say anything to me about my stay. With the sun already setting in the west, I took my supper over to the 'house across the street', and attempted to open the door. It was LOCKED! At the time of this writing, they have rectified the situation, by having a key hidden outside the facility at all times! When I made this particular ride, unknown to ANYBODY, you had to make reservations well in advance. I was locked out - with the sun setting - and no place to sleep for the night! I knew that 12 miles on down the trail was Mokane, MO - another tiny town. This town had a general store, a church, and an auto repair shop - and that's about it. Population = 188! The guide book and internet sources said that it is permissible to camp in the city park that immediately connects to the Trail, but you should call the mayor and let him know you are camping for the evening. Remember - the sun was already setting, and I had another hour's ride (12 miles) on down the trail before I got to Mokane. I flew down that trail - not unlike the steam engines that frequented that trail years earlier! When I pulled into Mokane, there was a group of people setting up a Carnival in the city park! It was their yearly function! Please keep in mind that any hotel / motel was many miles away, and the nearest person to "come and pick me up" was over 100 miles away. Self-sufficiency is the key when bicycling long distance on trails.
Back to the Gypsies....After 112 miles on a gravel-packed trail with 70 lbs of luggage, and 400 miles already under my belt, I was doing well - but I was tired and easily frustrated. At the end of my proverbial rope, I bicycled up a hill to the only church in town, and two ladies were outside trimming the bushes. I asked them, "Do you know anywhere I can pitch a tent for the night? Nobody will ever know I am there, and I will be gone on down the trail at the break of dawn." After my story, the ladies realized my plight, and one of them sheepishly replied, "If you go down and talk to the gentlemen setting up the Carnival, I'm sure they will let you camp in one corner of the park for the night. Go ahead and talk to them - they're nice guys." It came down to this: I either had to literally hide in the bushes overnight, and hope a state park ranger (the KATY Trail is a state park!) didn't find me, or I could hide in the out-house type bathroom overnight, or I could go down and put myself at these gentlemen's mercy. I gathered up enough fortitude to ask them if I could pitch a tent, and they pointed to the FAR corner of the park, near a patch of forest that backed up immediately to the KATY Trail.
Throughout the ENTIRE night, I might have slept an hour, at most. Even though I put in ear plugs, the woods at night is NOT quiet, and the partying didn't stop until probably 3:00 AM. I made sure that when I needed to see something in the dark, I used the tiny light on my keychain to avoid attracting unwanted attention to myself! I had no running water, so I had to wear my glasses (instead of contacts!), and as soon as dawn broke, I had my gear packed, and I hit the trail. I bicycled as fast as I could to the next town with at least some type of running water in a gas station bathroom to make myself presentable!
I had enough of "Sleeping with the Gypsies"!
To date, the Tebbet's Turner Katy Trail Shelter / Hostel now keeps an available key on a pole outside the shelter, and the guy that owns Jim's Bar across the street also has access! Trust me when I tell you that the readily available access to this facility is a direct result of 'nasty grams' (e-mails) sent by myself, and probably countless other people who were caught in the same predicament! Would I ride it again (if I was physically capable?) You bet! I just don't want to sleep with the Gypsies again!
WESTWARD, HO (HO ? ! ?)
With a "it's better than not riding at all" mind set, many people, including myself these days, choose to drive to one of the KATY Trail's 29 trail heads that offer parking. Most of the trail heads east of Jefferson City offer modern out-house style restroom facilities, and most of the trail heads west of Jefferson City offer restroom facilities with flush toilets, sinks and electricity. Many of the western trail heads are adjacent to ranger stations.
The individuals who choose a day ride or an hourly ride from St. Charles, for example, will never know the beauty this trail holds in its western segments. It is a 100 mile drive, for example, to drive to a Columbia, Rocheport or Jefferson City, MO trail head, which is arguably the most beautiful area of the trail. Rocheport offers a ranger station, restrooms, parking, and a full restaurant right on the trail, as well as many other amenities. Klondike County Park and Weldon Springs Conservation area notwithstanding, the trail between Easley and Sedalia is the most inspiring and beautiful section of this state park (The entire KATY Trail is considered a state park!)
I think it's already too late, but at the risk of writing my own trail guide, there is much to be written about side trips off the trail to the Washington, Herman, Jefferson City, Columbia and Rocheport, MO areas. There are a few privately owned camping sites along the trail, especially in the Hartsburg - Wilton - Easley areas. Follow one of the links at the bottom of this blog for information. I will direct you to the KATY Trail main page. Click on a town with the "lodging" symbol. Information will be provided on that town's individual page.
YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST CALL THESE ACCOMODATIONS TO VERIFY OPERATING HOURS AND AVAILABILITY AND FOR RESERVATIONS WELL **BEFORE** YOU EMBARK ON YOUR JOURNEY, AND CALL THE DAY BEFORE YOU ARE SCHEDULED TO STAY THAT NIGHT TO VERIFY RESERVATIONS! NOT DOING SO MAY LEAVE YOU TO 'SLEEP WITH THE GYPSIES!"
Even though you can find your own information by going to Bing.com, Altavista.com, Google.com, Dogpile.com, webcrawler.com, or any other web search engine, as promised, I will provide some links for you. If you do search for your own, search these terms:
"Klondike County Park"
"Weldon Spring Conservation Area"
"KATY Trail"
"(Any town's name along the trail)"
or these sites:
THE KATY TRAIL's HOME PAGE:
You will find virtually everything you need to know about the KATY Trail on this page. There are mileage charts, featuring a link to each city or small town along the trail. Also listed you will find ammenties associated with that city: restrooms, lodging, restaurants, any bicycle repair facilities, restaurants, and much, much more. Beware! It is wise to consult more than one source before planning a trip lasting more than one day. Don't believe everything you see and hear the first time you see and hear it!
http://www.bikekatytrail.com/
KATY TRAIL BOOK:
This is truly a wonderful guide, although it is more optimistic than the trail is, in reality. It is best to plan the hell out of your trip, and be prepared for alternative plans, if necessary, until you get to know the trail and the small towns surrounding it. Once you KNOW the reality of the trail, it is a great ride!
http://www.pebblepublishing.com/complete_katy_trail_guidebook.htm
TEBBETS, MO KATY TRAIL HOSTEL:
KLONDIKE COUNTY PARK
(general information and camping or cabin reservations)
You must call the phone number listed on this page (The St. Charles Parks & Recreation Dept) at least a month in advance, and preferably much earlier than that to make a reservation for a cabin. Have your credit card info ready!
http://parks.sccmo.org/parks/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=63&Itemid=101
KLONDIKE....A website for cyclist and hikers:
Some pics of Klondike:
- Michael
Once a touring cyclist, always a touring cyclist at heart!
Most of us experience the world at a much faster pace: By car or other mechanized form or transportation. When I bicycle or walk through an area that I normally motorize through, I have time to notice much greater detail in nature and the architecture of that area. That can be both good or bad, depending on the area. However, there are a *lot* of neighborhoods that I would NOT recommend moving slowly through!
At the end of this article, you will find copious links for all information mentioned in this particular blog.
Round 'bout late Sept / early Oct, when the weather cools off at night a bit, but days are a comfortable 70 degrees, I feel an irrepressible urge to tour the KATY Trail, and local bicycle trails as well.
My B.O.B (Beast-of-Burden!) trailer:
I included my fully loaded REI Novara Randonee touring bicycle (with Ortleib bags) in this picture for perspective. The size of the bluffs in this picture are relatively small compared to the bluffs a few miles down the trail, between Jefferson City and Booneville, MO, which are 3 times this height:
Keep in mind that I am blind in one eye, I have one arm that is 4" shorter than the other, and I have basically a "leg and a half".
The first 19 miles, there isn't much to see on the KATY Trail. Before the trail reaches Klondike County Park, I approached the Weldon Springs Conservation Area. It is a beautiful place, and is the first of 2 places along the trail that nature has fought back to reclaim her beautiful wilderness. Portions of the Weldon Spring Conservation Area were used by the Department of Army in the 1940's for TNT and DNT production and by the Atomic Energy Commission in the 1960's for uranium ore processing. The affected portions were all part of a federal environmental cleanup project and required to meet certain environmental health and safety standards. The area is now considered safe for all recreational pursuits allowed on the area, as well as the wildlife found within the area. The trail passes immediately adjacent to a long stretch of bog / swamp / marsh. In the growing season, the view is both beautiful and surreal.
The other example of nature's resiliency is Klondike County Park, a short 10.4 miles from Weldon Springs Conservation Area. This park was once a quarry used to mine silica to make glass, at a factory located immediately across the Missouri River. The sand, rocks, cliffs, etc, in this park are truly snow-white. Another feature of this stone is that it can be crushed under foot, much like a sugar cube. This park is a relatively new park, opening up in 2003.
The other example of nature's resiliency is Klondike County Park, a short 10.4 miles from Weldon Springs Conservation Area. This park was once a quarry used to mine silica to make glass, at a factory located immediately across the Missouri River. The sand, rocks, cliffs, etc, in this park are truly snow-white. Another feature of this stone is that it can be crushed under foot, much like a sugar cube. This park is a relatively new park, opening up in 2003.
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| Sunrise over the lake created in the quarry in Klondike County Park |
At this park, there is a convention center, 8 cabins that sleep 8 people each, basic and advanced camping sites, as well as hot showers and a camp kitchen. Klondike County Park is known as "The Jewel of St. Charles County". On my way out and on my trip back home, I either camp there, or rent a cabin.
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| The Convention Center in Klondike County Park - great for weddings and wedding receptions |
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| A rental cabin at Klondike County Park |
A quick, amateurish walk-through of a cabin, with a very cheap digital camera:
The day that you are planning to arrive at your cabin, the park ranger will call you and tell you your pass code to unlock the door of the cabin. The cabins have power and lights, a ceiling fan, a private, small, separate bedroom that sleeps 4 people in bunk beds, a loft that sleeps 2, and a Futon that sleeps 2. There is a picnic-style table inside, as well as a picnic table outside, and each cabin has it's own private fire pit.
These cabins do not have heat or air conditioning, and they do not have running water or toilet facilities. Located within a 2 minute walk, is either a Biodegradable outhouse-style toilet (with marble counter tops and running water!), or a complete shelter house with modern toilet facilities, hot showers, and a camp kitchen.
Three miles west of Klondike is Augusta, MO. Augusta has the Trail Head Brewery, which is nice for a meal, snack, beer or cocktail before retreating back to Klondike County Park for the evening. There are small villages and towns at regular intervals along the trail. It is the opinion of this writer that the real beauty of the KATY Trail really doesn't unfold until about 20 miles East of Columbia, MO, and then continues until just a few miles east of Sedalia, MO. From Sedalia, MO to Clinton,MO, which is the end of the trail (255 miles one way), the trail is basically flat and geographically relatively uninteresting.
The Columbia / Jefferson City / Rocheport, MO area on this trail is absolutely beautiful. Most of this particular trail runs directly along the Missouri River, until Booneville, MO, and the trail branches off in a south-western direction, and away from the Missouri River
"KLONDIKE"
- THE LEGENDARY WILD 'GHOST' GOAT!
(and former unofficial mascot of the park!)
Absolutely no trip to Klondike County Park is complete without a slow walk to the top of the huge hill behind the convention center. The only way to the top of this look-out spot is to walk (or ride, if you are Superman!) up a steep, paved walkway. About 2/3 up the hill is a large level area. Evidence of the previous mining activity is apparent in this spot, and many other areas of the park, if you look carefully. There are blast marks on the ground in this area. A fence surrounds this area, to keep any nut jobs from falling over the edge. There are a couple park benches, a picnic table, and a bio-outhouse in this area. These outhouses have solar panels, they are ventilated, have self-contained running water for hand washing, feature granite counter tops, and have virtually no smell! There are several throughout the park.
If we leave the beaten path that most visitors take, we can go up the hill a bit higher. A certain distance up this hill, we will find a fenced off area. Before a girl fell off this cliff (IDIOT!), we could walk to the very pinnacle of this cliff. Ravens fly above, and I could see for miles. The view is breathtaking.
Before retiring to my tent on the first night of my stay in this park, I made my first trip up this hill to enjoy the view. I usually planned on being at my destination for the evening just before sundown. That allowed me time enough to enjoy my destination, relax a bit, and settle in for the evening. That is where I differ from many cyclist. With very few exceptions, when I set out to ride, I actually plan to go some place! I had a destination every time I left the house. I call it 'incentive'!
At the summit: I have an uncanny sense of smell. I won't go into details, but let's just say that I wish EVERYBODY would wash themselves before boarding public transportation! Anywho.... I climbed to the outlook plateau on this huge hill, and I got a whiff of something rather strange. It had a distinctive musky, sweaty, 'greasy' odor. When I decided to look at my surroundings to see if I could determine the source of this odor, the 'source' was about 50 ft. from me - looking me dead in the eye. He obviously saw me before I saw him! **I** was invading his territory. In his opinion, I was on his turf. This creature was waist high, he had long, shaggy, dark gray coat, huge curly ram's horns that would make any St. Louis Rams fan envious, and this wise, aged look in his yellow slanted eyes.
The first time I ascended this hill was the last time I actually took my bicycle with me. I rode half way up the hill in granny gear, and pushed the bicycle the rest of the way up the hill. There are very few hills that I have ever tried to conquer that required me to dismount and PUSH the thing up the hill, but there have been a few instances where 'pushing' was necessary. Two of the four hills that I have had to 'push' are in Klondike Park, the one of the other hills is in Augusta, MO (even though I have ridden up this hill many times without pushing), and the other time is in Holt's Summit, MO, just across the Missouri River outside Jefferson City, MO. With each subsequent visit to this particular hill, I choose to leave all but one pannier and my BOB trailer at my campsite or in my cabin before visiting. There is no real threat of theft in this park, but out of sheer habit, I would lock my bicycle at the base of the hill before climbing it on foot.
Back to 'Klondike - The Mascot':
I was sitting on my fully loaded bicycle (with loaded bright read Ortlieb panniers and my bright yellow BOB trailer), about 50 ft. from this mean looking goat. At the time, we probably weighed about the same, but my bicycle has drop handlebars, and with the trailer included, the additional gear made me look bigger and more menacing than HIM. As a bluff, he started to snort, put his head down, and paw the ground in a mock attempt to threaten me. When he realized that I truly wasn't going to run away, he turned and climbed a path that was almost vertical up a smaller hill. This gave him the upper hand, because he was higher than me. He turned and looked at me, as if to say, "OK - It's your turn! Show me what got!" Without taking my eyes off him, I slowly got off my bicycle, and reached for my camera in my panniers. I snapped a couple rather bad shots of him, but they did serve to prove that I was actually there, and that this huge mountain goat wasn't a figment of my imagination!
After I snapped the photo, 'Klondike' started pawing and snorting again. Being a non-gambler, I decided to get the heck out of there and let him have his territory back. I put my hands up as if to surrender, and I said, "OK, buddy - you can have it! You won King of the Hill!", and I headed back down the hill on my bicycle! What a way to warm up the brake pads!
(Fast forward 1 year)
When I returned the following year, I stayed at Klondike County Park twice more, one night on the way out (westward), and the other night upon my return (eastward). On my way out, I did climb the 'mount' and I saw Mr. Klondike once more. Upon my return 5 days later, I climbed the hill one last time, for the nostalgia of the event, and for one more breathtaking view before I returned to my cabin. This time, I could SMELL him, but I couldn't see him. Ferrel goats are good at rubbing themselves on trees, etc, to mark their territories with their scent. There is nothing more eerie than knowing Mr. Klondike is close enough for me to SMELL him, but I couldn't see him.....and I knew very well that he could see me!
(Fast forward 2 years)
During my last trek down the KATY Trail (a full tour, at any rate), I was a bit disenchanted. Not only did the water main that ran to the park break the day before I arrived (and nobody called to tell me, or offer my $$ back!), but I climbed the hill one last time. I couldn't see nor smell Klondike this time. Even though his presence could leave a visitor somewhat uneasy, I was missing him, just the same.
Due to the water main break, there was no running water in the park at all during my last full tour of the Trail. (They have since rectified the situation by installing more than one water main, so that if one breaks, there will be a back up plan.) To help ease the discomfort of not being able to take a shower for 2 days, the head park ranger came to my cabin to talk to me. She offered me a couple gallons of water so I would have something to drink, and to be able to brush my teeth and put my contacts in the next morning. First, she attempted to yell at me for burning a fallen tree, but I explained to her that this particular tree had fallen in the woods 2 yrs. earlier, and that the previous tenants of the cabin had dragged it out of the woods and started burning it. The park rules and regulations prohibit collecting and / or burning wood found in the park, itself. The rules DO allow bringing in your own wood, as long as it is a native Missouri species, to avoid the risk of introducing unwanted pests to the trees in the park. Remember that this entire park was once a quarry, and only over the past few years has it been resilient enough to replenish vegetation. There is a little general store in Augusta, just 3 miles down the trail, that sells firewood, and there is also a small Mom and Pop shop just a block away that sells wood to campers. Those places where most visitors to the park buy their wood.
Once the ranger was satisfied that I was not the culprit that committed said infraction (and that it was a weekday evening, and I was the only camper in the park!), she sat down on the steps of my cabin and started chatting with me. I asked her "What happened to Klondike the Goat?" She told me that he actually was not a figment of my imagination, and that for the past 5 years, they he has been their unofficial mascot. However..... some flaming **IDIOT** started to feed him apples, and when the next person came along that did NOT have an apple, he or she got a head butt from this mammal missile that probably was not one to be reckoned with! I supposed that if Klondike got pissed, he could knock a person a fair distance!
Could somebody please tell me? What hellaciously stupid person would be **IDIOT** enough to approach a horribly smelly, obviously wild, HUGE animal with HUGE horns that looked like the devil himself, to offer him an apple? Unfortunately, it was humans - imagine that! - that caused his demise. If they would have left him well enough alone, there is a good chance that Klondike would still be the stuff that legends are made of, and he would still be the King of his territory. The Park Ranger said that they had to set a humane, live trap, and capture poor old Klondike, and that a local farmer adopted him to live the rest of his days out happily on a farm. I am hoping that the farmer put him in an enclosure by himself for a while, until he became adapted to other farm animals and the new humans in his life. Although he made an impressive photograph, I hope they gave him a bath and a hair cut! The moral of this particular part of the story:
1) I miss poor old Klondike. This park is BEAUTIFUL, but there seems to be a palpable emptiness.
2) Humans can, indeed, be the dumbest animals!
THE NIGHT I HAD TO SLEEP WITH THE GYPSIES!
Good planning is essential when preparing for either a short one hour ride, a day ride, or for a bicycle vacation. More often than not, I am literally out in the middle of nowhere. There are small towns scattered along most of the trail, but many of them have little to no services available to people using the Katy Trail. Since camping along the KATY Trail is strictly prohibited, a cyclist that is taking riding any real length of the trail MUST have plans for accommodations made in advance, and his planning must be such that he is at his evening destination before dusk hits the trail. You have to know "Where you are going to be, and when you are going to be there." Before I left home, I had camping reservations made for 2 nights (one going out, and one coming back) at Klondike County Park, 2 nights at a hotel in Sedalia, MO, and one night at this Hostel along the trail that is set aside specifically for KATY Trail users.
Anywho...I bought a "fairly good" book about the Katy trail. The book lists each small (or larger!) town, and services or places of interest at each town or city. At Tebbets, MO, the book says there is a "Turner Katy Trail Shelter Hostel". This Hostel has all the heat / air, hot water, a functional kitchen, ping pong table, and sleeps 40, if necessary. This place would be a welcome respite for any weary Trail user.
I had planned on staying there at end of a day that I had just put in over 100 miles, with a leg-and-a-half, an arm-and-a-half, etc - and 70 lbs. of luggage. I stopped at the bar / restaurant across the street for some supper, and told the gentleman that I was planned on staying at the Hostel across the street. Mind you, there are only 2 streets in this town - it is TINY! The gentleman didn't say anything to me about my stay. With the sun already setting in the west, I took my supper over to the 'house across the street', and attempted to open the door. It was LOCKED! At the time of this writing, they have rectified the situation, by having a key hidden outside the facility at all times! When I made this particular ride, unknown to ANYBODY, you had to make reservations well in advance. I was locked out - with the sun setting - and no place to sleep for the night! I knew that 12 miles on down the trail was Mokane, MO - another tiny town. This town had a general store, a church, and an auto repair shop - and that's about it. Population = 188! The guide book and internet sources said that it is permissible to camp in the city park that immediately connects to the Trail, but you should call the mayor and let him know you are camping for the evening. Remember - the sun was already setting, and I had another hour's ride (12 miles) on down the trail before I got to Mokane. I flew down that trail - not unlike the steam engines that frequented that trail years earlier! When I pulled into Mokane, there was a group of people setting up a Carnival in the city park! It was their yearly function! Please keep in mind that any hotel / motel was many miles away, and the nearest person to "come and pick me up" was over 100 miles away. Self-sufficiency is the key when bicycling long distance on trails.
Back to the Gypsies....After 112 miles on a gravel-packed trail with 70 lbs of luggage, and 400 miles already under my belt, I was doing well - but I was tired and easily frustrated. At the end of my proverbial rope, I bicycled up a hill to the only church in town, and two ladies were outside trimming the bushes. I asked them, "Do you know anywhere I can pitch a tent for the night? Nobody will ever know I am there, and I will be gone on down the trail at the break of dawn." After my story, the ladies realized my plight, and one of them sheepishly replied, "If you go down and talk to the gentlemen setting up the Carnival, I'm sure they will let you camp in one corner of the park for the night. Go ahead and talk to them - they're nice guys." It came down to this: I either had to literally hide in the bushes overnight, and hope a state park ranger (the KATY Trail is a state park!) didn't find me, or I could hide in the out-house type bathroom overnight, or I could go down and put myself at these gentlemen's mercy. I gathered up enough fortitude to ask them if I could pitch a tent, and they pointed to the FAR corner of the park, near a patch of forest that backed up immediately to the KATY Trail.
Throughout the ENTIRE night, I might have slept an hour, at most. Even though I put in ear plugs, the woods at night is NOT quiet, and the partying didn't stop until probably 3:00 AM. I made sure that when I needed to see something in the dark, I used the tiny light on my keychain to avoid attracting unwanted attention to myself! I had no running water, so I had to wear my glasses (instead of contacts!), and as soon as dawn broke, I had my gear packed, and I hit the trail. I bicycled as fast as I could to the next town with at least some type of running water in a gas station bathroom to make myself presentable!
I had enough of "Sleeping with the Gypsies"!
To date, the Tebbet's Turner Katy Trail Shelter / Hostel now keeps an available key on a pole outside the shelter, and the guy that owns Jim's Bar across the street also has access! Trust me when I tell you that the readily available access to this facility is a direct result of 'nasty grams' (e-mails) sent by myself, and probably countless other people who were caught in the same predicament! Would I ride it again (if I was physically capable?) You bet! I just don't want to sleep with the Gypsies again!
WESTWARD, HO (HO ? ! ?)
With a "it's better than not riding at all" mind set, many people, including myself these days, choose to drive to one of the KATY Trail's 29 trail heads that offer parking. Most of the trail heads east of Jefferson City offer modern out-house style restroom facilities, and most of the trail heads west of Jefferson City offer restroom facilities with flush toilets, sinks and electricity. Many of the western trail heads are adjacent to ranger stations.
The individuals who choose a day ride or an hourly ride from St. Charles, for example, will never know the beauty this trail holds in its western segments. It is a 100 mile drive, for example, to drive to a Columbia, Rocheport or Jefferson City, MO trail head, which is arguably the most beautiful area of the trail. Rocheport offers a ranger station, restrooms, parking, and a full restaurant right on the trail, as well as many other amenities. Klondike County Park and Weldon Springs Conservation area notwithstanding, the trail between Easley and Sedalia is the most inspiring and beautiful section of this state park (The entire KATY Trail is considered a state park!)
I think it's already too late, but at the risk of writing my own trail guide, there is much to be written about side trips off the trail to the Washington, Herman, Jefferson City, Columbia and Rocheport, MO areas. There are a few privately owned camping sites along the trail, especially in the Hartsburg - Wilton - Easley areas. Follow one of the links at the bottom of this blog for information. I will direct you to the KATY Trail main page. Click on a town with the "lodging" symbol. Information will be provided on that town's individual page.
YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST CALL THESE ACCOMODATIONS TO VERIFY OPERATING HOURS AND AVAILABILITY AND FOR RESERVATIONS WELL **BEFORE** YOU EMBARK ON YOUR JOURNEY, AND CALL THE DAY BEFORE YOU ARE SCHEDULED TO STAY THAT NIGHT TO VERIFY RESERVATIONS! NOT DOING SO MAY LEAVE YOU TO 'SLEEP WITH THE GYPSIES!"
Even though you can find your own information by going to Bing.com, Altavista.com, Google.com, Dogpile.com, webcrawler.com, or any other web search engine, as promised, I will provide some links for you. If you do search for your own, search these terms:
"Klondike County Park"
"Weldon Spring Conservation Area"
"KATY Trail"
"(Any town's name along the trail)"
or these sites:
THE KATY TRAIL's HOME PAGE:
You will find virtually everything you need to know about the KATY Trail on this page. There are mileage charts, featuring a link to each city or small town along the trail. Also listed you will find ammenties associated with that city: restrooms, lodging, restaurants, any bicycle repair facilities, restaurants, and much, much more. Beware! It is wise to consult more than one source before planning a trip lasting more than one day. Don't believe everything you see and hear the first time you see and hear it!
http://www.bikekatytrail.com/
KATY TRAIL BOOK:
This is truly a wonderful guide, although it is more optimistic than the trail is, in reality. It is best to plan the hell out of your trip, and be prepared for alternative plans, if necessary, until you get to know the trail and the small towns surrounding it. Once you KNOW the reality of the trail, it is a great ride!
http://www.pebblepublishing.com/complete_katy_trail_guidebook.htm
TEBBETS, MO KATY TRAIL HOSTEL:
KLONDIKE COUNTY PARK
(general information and camping or cabin reservations)
You must call the phone number listed on this page (The St. Charles Parks & Recreation Dept) at least a month in advance, and preferably much earlier than that to make a reservation for a cabin. Have your credit card info ready!
http://parks.sccmo.org/parks/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=63&Itemid=101
KLONDIKE....A website for cyclist and hikers:
Some pics of Klondike:
- Michael
